The Honest Andaman Travel Guide (First-Hand, No Commission)
- India
- Andaman
- Travel Guide
We only write about places we have actually been, and this one we know from the ground up.
6–7 days
Honest trip length
Port Blair · Havelock · Neil: planned honestly
25 km / 1–1.5 hr
Households
~20 total
Ideal stay
1 – 2 nights
In shortA first-hand guide to the Andamans: Port Blair, Havelock and Neil, the ferries between them and when to go.
Andaman & Nicobar TourismAndamanTourism.orgA&N PoliceGo2AndamanWe flew into Port Blair, took the ferries out to Havelock (now Swaraj Dweep) and Neil (Shaheed Dweep), got seasick once, missed a boat once, and came home sunburnt and happy. This is not a booking site and we earn nothing if you go: this is the honest version of Andaman tourism.
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a union territory of India sitting far out in the Bay of Bengal, closer to Myanmar and Thailand than to the Indian mainland. There are hundreds of islands but only a handful are open and set up for tourism. The capital, Port Blair, is on South Andaman and is where almost every trip begins, because that is where the airport and the main harbour are.
One thing to be clear about from the start: the Nicobar Islands are restricted and not open to tourists. They are a protected tribal and strategic zone, and even most Indians cannot simply go. If a package promises you Nicobar, walk away. Everything a normal traveller does happens in the Andaman group.
| Best time to visit | November to April (Feb–Mar best for diving; avoid mid-May to September monsoon) |
| How to reach | Fly to Port Blair (Veer Savarkar Airport, IXZ) from Chennai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai; or a 3–4 day passenger ship from Chennai/Kolkata/Vizag |
| Ideal trip length | 6–7 days for the classic circuit; 5 days if rushed; 10+ for offbeat North Andaman |
| Main islands | Port Blair, Havelock (Swaraj Dweep), Neil (Shaheed Dweep), Baratang, Diglipur, Little Andaman |
| Famous for | Scuba diving, white-sand beaches (Radhanagar), the Cellular Jail, coral reefs, sea walk |
| Rough budget/day | ₹2,500–4,000 backpacker; ₹5,000–9,000 mid-range; ₹15,000+ luxury (pp, excl. flights) |
01 · What and where are the Andaman Islands?
Andaman is for you if you want warm clear water, genuinely good diving and snorkelling, empty stretches of white sand, and a slow island pace with no nightlife to speak of. It suits couples and honeymooners, first-time divers, families with older kids, and solo travellers who like the sea. It is a poorer fit if you want shopping, buzzing bars, or guaranteed schedules: ferries get cancelled, internet is patchy, and most islands are quiet by 9pm. If that sounds like a feature, you will love it.
November to January: the peak
Peak season: pleasant and dry, but the busiest and priciest, especially around Christmas and New Year. Book flights and ferries weeks ahead.
February to March: the sweet spot
Warm, calm, clear water, the best diving visibility of the year, and slightly thinner crowds than the holiday peak. If you can pick any window, pick this one.
April to mid-May: hot but cheap
Hot and humid but still workable, and often the cheapest good-weather window as crowds thin. Seas start to build late in this period.
Mid-May to September: the honest skip
The southwest monsoon: heavy rain, rough seas and frequent ferry cancellations. Some dive centres close. Prices are lowest but plans get disrupted: we would not choose it for a first trip. October is the shoulder: steadying weather, lush greenery, good value.
Which month is best?
On the cheapest-month question: April and the monsoon fringe (early October, early May) give the lowest fares, but you trade weather and reliability. For the best balance of price and conditions, aim for late November or the first half of February.
February and March: calm seas, top visibility, reliable ferries
The short answer to the most-searched question. The whole November to April window is good, but February and March give you the calmest crossings and the clearest water for diving and snorkelling.
By air
The way almost everyone arrives
Fly to Port Blair, Veer Savarkar International Airport (IXZ), from Chennai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai or Hyderabad. Chennai and Kolkata are the shortest hops at roughly 2 hours. Book early: seat prices climb steeply in peak season and there is no last-minute deal culture here.
By sea
The slow, cheap adventure
Government passenger ships sail from Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam, taking 3–4 days each way. Basic, irregular, and tickets sell through official counters rather than easy online booking, only worth it if you have lots of time and want the experience.
Between islands
Ferries are your lifeline
Private catamarans (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) are air-conditioned, faster and bookable online (₹1,000–2,900 per sector). Government ferries are far cheaper but slower and counter-booked. Build a buffer day: rough weather cancels sailings with little notice.
Getting there: routes at a glance
| From | How | Time | Rough cost (pp) |
| Chennai | Direct flight to Port Blair | ~2 hrs | ₹5,000–12,000 one way |
| Kolkata | Direct flight | ~2 hrs | ₹5,000–12,000 |
| Bengaluru / Delhi / Mumbai / Hyderabad | Direct or one-stop flight | 2.5–5 hrs | ₹6,000–15,000 |
| Chennai / Kolkata / Vizag | Government passenger ship | 3–4 days | Few thousand ₹ (bunk) upwards |
| Port Blair ⇄ Havelock ⇄ Neil | Private catamaran (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) | 1–2 hrs/leg | ₹1,000–2,900 per sector |
Port Blair
The gateway and only real town. History-heavy: the sobering Cellular Jail and its evening light-and-sound show, Corbyn’s Cove, the Samudrika museum, and day trips to Ross Island and North Bay. Functional rather than beautiful: one night on arrival, one before flying out.
Havelock (Swaraj Dweep)
The star. Home to Radhanagar beach (one of Asia’s best), calm Vijaynagar and Kalapathar, and the main scuba scene. Most travellers give it 2–3 nights. If you only have time for one island beyond Port Blair, make it this one: see our full Havelock Island guide.
Baratang
A long day trip from Port Blair for the limestone caves and mud volcano, via the Andaman Trunk Road through the Jarawa tribal reserve in a regulated convoy. Interesting but genuinely long and tiring: skippable if your days are tight.
Neil (Shaheed Dweep)
Smaller, greener and slower than Havelock, an hour further by ferry. Natural rock bridge, Bharatpur and Laxmanpur beaches, lovely sunsets, gentle snorkelling. Perfect for one relaxed night or two: our Neil Island hotels guide covers where to stay.
Diglipur, North Andaman & Little Andaman
The offbeat end: Ross and Smith twin islands joined by a sandbar, turtle beaches, Saddle Peak, and remote, surf-friendly Little Andaman. For travellers with 10 days or more: beautiful and uncrowded.
Port Blair vs Havelock: which to base in?
They serve different purposes, so do not treat it as either/or. Port Blair is the practical hub for history, museums and your first and last night near the airport. Havelock is where you actually relax, dive and enjoy the beaches. Spend the minimum in Port Blair and the bulk of your holiday on Havelock and Neil. Nobody comes back wishing they had spent more time in Port Blair town.
The sea is the whole point
Scuba diving is the flagship: beginners can do a guided try-dive with no certification, and Havelock is the main base; prices and honest safety notes are in our scuba diving in Andaman guide. Snorkelling is excellent and cheap, best around Neil, Elephant Beach and North Bay. Add the sea walk (a helmet-walk along the seabed), night kayaking through bioluminescent mangroves on Havelock, and the usual jet ski, banana boat and glass-bottom rides at North Bay.
Two categories run the Port Blair–Havelock–Neil routes. Private catamarans (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) are air-conditioned, faster, more comfortable, and bookable online, roughly ₹1,000–2,900 per sector depending on class. Government ferries are much cheaper (a few hundred rupees) but slower and counter-booked. Book private ferries directly with the operator, lock them in weeks ahead in peak season, arrive at the jetty early, and always keep a buffer day for weather.
Where to stay, by budget
Seafood, the day it is landed
The most-asked planning question
Quietly romantic, not glitzy
Per person, per week, excluding flights
Budget (₹800–2,500/night): guesthouses and homestays on Havelock, Neil and around Port Blair: true hostels are rare (Zostel Port Blair, a handful on Havelock). Mid-range (₹3,000–7,000): comfortable beach resorts, best value on Havelock. Luxury (₹12,000+): a small number of premium resorts on Havelock, including the well-known Taj property near Radhanagar. Whatever the budget, book direct, on-island availability is thin in season. For Neil specifically, see our Neil Island hotels comparison.
Fresh grilled fish, prawns and crab with strong Bengali and South-Indian influences. Havelock has the most variety, from beach shacks to proper coffee. Vegetarians are catered for but choices narrow on smaller islands. A casual meal for two runs roughly ₹400–1,200. Every restaurant we would actually return to is in our guide to where to eat in the Andamans.
Know Before You Go: Andaman Essentials
- Indians need no permit, just a government photo ID; Nicobar stays closed to all tourists
- Book inter-island ferries 1–3 weeks ahead in season and always keep a buffer day
- Carry cash: island ATMs run dry and card machines are patchy
- No flying for 18–24 hours after a scuba dive
One island at a time
Havelock deserves its own read before you book anything: beaches, ferries, stays and the honest tips nobody prints.
Permits: the current status
4 days is too short. 5 days is the practical minimum: Port Blair (1N), Havelock (2N), Neil (1N); our 5-day Andaman itinerary maps it hour by hour. 6 days is the sweet spot for most people. 7 days is comfortable, with room for Baratang or extra dives. 10+ reaches Diglipur and the offbeat north.
Responsible travel and the Jarawa reserve
Five that actually work
Scooters, autos and boats
Plan for patchy internet
Carry more cash than you think
Andaman is a strong, far cheaper honeymoon alternative to overseas beach destinations. Base yourselves on Havelock, pick a beachfront resort near Radhanagar, and add a private sunset point and an intro dive together. Relaxed rather than glitzy, which is exactly the appeal.
Backpacker: ₹2,500–4,000/day → roughly ₹18,000–28,000 for the week. Mid-range: ₹5,000–9,000/day → ₹35,000–60,000. Luxury: ₹15,000+/day, easily double with premium resorts. Add return flights from the mainland, which swing hugely with season and booking lead time. Diving, private ferries and peak-season stays are the big variables.
From reef dives to prison history: the honest shortlist
On pure cost, Andaman usually wins for Indian travellers: no international airfare, no visa, rupee pricing throughout. A comparable week often lands well below a Maldives trip and on par with or below Bali once flights are counted. Bali beats it on nightlife and dining variety; the Maldives on overwater-villa luxury. Andaman’s edge is value, easy access, genuinely excellent diving, and no passport.
02 · The top experiences, ranked honestly
Indian nationals need no permit, just a valid government photo ID. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit, now issued on arrival at Port Blair airport or seaport, valid 30 days, covering the main tourist islands. A valid Indian visa is required first. Small entry and camera fees apply at monuments like the Cellular Jail. Rules change: check the official position before travelling.
What actually fills your days
The road to Baratang passes through the Jarawa tribal reserve. The Jarawa are a protected indigenous community, and it is a legal offence to photograph, film, feed or interact with them. Travel in the regulated convoy, keep windows and cameras down, and treat it as a road you pass through, not a spectacle. More broadly: use reef-safe sunscreen, never touch or stand on coral, take your plastic back, and book directly with local operators so your money stays on the islands.
Dive the Havelock reefs
The flagship experience. A beginner Discover Scuba dive needs no certification and no swimming ability: an instructor holds you throughout. The reefs off Havelock are the best in India; full prices and safety notes in our scuba guide.
₹3,500–7,500 · Oct–May
Sunset at Radhanagar Beach
The white-sand curve that keeps getting called Asia’s best, and for once the hype holds. Arrive by 4.30pm, walk to the quieter far end, and stay for the best sundown of the trip.
Free · gates close ~6pm
Snorkel Elephant Beach
Speedboat or jungle trek to Havelock’s snorkelling hub: live coral and reef fish right off the sand. Go early, agree prices before boarding, and never stand on the coral.
₹1,000–2,500 with boat
Walk the Cellular Jail
The colonial-era prison that is the emotional heart of the islands. Time it for the evening light-and-sound show on your first Port Blair night.
Entry ~₹40 · show ~₹300
Catch low tide at Neil’s Natural Bridge
A coral rock arch that only makes sense at low tide: check tide timings first. Pair it with Bharatpur’s glass-bottom boats and a Laxmanpur sunset.
Free · low tide only
Sea walk at North Bay
A weighted helmet-walk along the seabed: non-swimmers see the reef floor without getting their hair wet. A novelty, but a good one.
~₹3,500–4,500
Night kayak the glowing mangroves
On darker nights the bioluminescent plankton around Havelock’s mangroves glows blue as your paddle stirs it. Moon-phase dependent: treat it as a lucky bonus.
~₹2,500–3,500 · new-moon weeks
Day-trip to Ross Island
Atmospheric British ruins being swallowed by roots, plus deer and peacocks, a short boat from Aberdeen Jetty. An easy final-day add-on.
Boat + entry ~₹400–600
Eat the day’s catch
Grilled fish, tandoori prawns and chilli crab where turnover is high. The best kitchens island by island are in our where to eat guide.
₹400–1,200 for two, casual
Go north if you have time
Baratang’s limestone caves, Diglipur’s twin islands and turtle beaches, Little Andaman’s surf: the 10-day-plus reward for slowing down.
Long days · worth it
If you only do two things
Dive (or snorkel) one morning off Havelock, and stand on Radhanagar for one sunset. Those two are the Andamans distilled: everything else is arrangement.
Follow the 5-day route we actually ran
Our 5-day Andaman itinerary books flights first, ferries second, stays third, with real INR costs for every leg.
The classic circuit, hour by hour
Fly Chennai or Kolkata for the cheapest fares. Book ferries direct with operators, not agents. Travel late November or early February for the price-to-weather sweet spot. Mix one government-ferry leg into your route if you are flexible. And book island stays directly with the property: availability is thin and OTA margins are real.
Same territory, very different days
Day 1: land Port Blair, Cellular Jail + light-and-sound show. Day 2: morning ferry to Havelock, scooter, Radhanagar sunset. Day 3: Kalapathar sunrise, scuba or Elephant Beach. Day 4: hop to Neil: Bharatpur, Natural Bridge at low tide, Laxmanpur sunset. Day 5: morning ferry back, Ross Island if your flight is late, fly home. The full costed version is in the 5-day itinerary.
Rough weather cancels ferries with little notice. Never plan a same-morning ferry-then-flight connection: sleep in Port Blair the night before you fly out.
Book in this order
Flights first, inter-island ferries second (they sell out in peak season), stays third, activities last. Everything hangs off your Port Blair arrival and departure times.
Where each island fits
On Havelock and Neil, rent a scooter (₹400–600/day): it turns each island into an easy day of beach-hopping. Port Blair runs on autos and taxis. Between islands it is ferries only; there are no bridges and no inter-island flights for tourists.
The gateway town
History, museums, the Cellular Jail and the airport. One night in, one night out: functional, not a beach holiday.
2–3 nights · the star
Radhanagar, Kalapathar, Elephant Beach and India’s best diving. The widest choice of stays and food: full detail in the Havelock guide.
1–2 nights · slow down
Natural Bridge, Bharatpur snorkelling, Laxmanpur sunsets, dark skies. Where the trip exhales: stays compared in the Neil hotels guide.
Long day trip
Limestone caves and the mud volcano via a regulated convoy. Tiring; only with 6+ days.
The offbeat north
Ross & Smith twin islands, turtle beaches, Saddle Peak. Needs 10+ days and a taste for long roads.
Remote & surf-friendly
Barely developed, a long government ferry south. For the truly flexible only.
| Island | Nights | Best for | Getting there |
| Port Blair | 1–2 | Cellular Jail, logistics | Fly in (IXZ) |
| Havelock | 2–3 | Beaches, diving | Ferry 1.5–2 hrs |
| Neil | 1–2 | Snorkelling, sunsets | Ferry 1 hr from Havelock |
| Baratang | Day trip | Caves, mud volcano | Road convoy from Port Blair |
| Diglipur | 2+ | Twin islands, turtles | Long road/ferry north |
The one-week shape that works
Port Blair (1N) → Havelock (3N) → Neil (2N) → Port Blair (1N, fly out). It front-loads the beach days, keeps one dive morning spare, and never gambles a flight on a same-day ferry.
Season planner
Use February–March for diving clarity, late November for the price-to-weather balance, and October for green-season value. The table below is the honest month-by-month call.
| Months | Weather | Seas & ferries | Verdict |
| Nov–Jan | Dry, pleasant | Calm, reliable | Peak: book everything early |
| Feb–Mar | Warm, clearest water | Calmest | The sweet spot |
| Apr–mid May | Hot, humid | Building late | Cheapest good window |
| Mid May–Sep | Monsoon rain | Rough, cancellations | Skip for a first trip |
| Oct | Steadying, lush | Improving | Shoulder value |
First half of February. Calm crossings, peak visibility underwater, and the New Year crowds gone. Late November is the runner-up.
Know before you go
Know before you go
Carry cash (ATMs run dry on the islands), download offline maps and tickets, pack reef-safe sunscreen, and remember the no-fly rule: no flying for 18–24 hours after a dive.
Ferries sell out
Book private catamarans 1–3 weeks ahead in peak season, directly with the operator. Arrive 60–90 minutes early: boarding is slow and they will not hold the boat.
Respect the reef
No touching, no standing, no sunscreen chemicals you would not swim in. The reefs took a hit from bleaching and the 2004 tsunami and recover slowly.
The Jarawa rule
On any Baratang transit: no photos, no stops, no interaction. It is a legal offence and rightly so.
Nicobar is closed
No tourist goes to Nicobar. Any package that claims otherwise is either lying or breaking the law: walk away.
The Andaman Guide Library
This page is the overview. The deep, first-hand detail (every fare, dive site, hotel and restaurant) lives in the guides below.
5-Day Andaman Itinerary
The exact day-by-day route we ran, with real INR costs per leg: the perfect 5-day Andaman itinerary.
Havelock Island Guide
Radhanagar, Kalapathar, Elephant Beach, stays and food on the star island: the complete Havelock guide.
Scuba Diving in Andaman
Real 2026 prices, the best dive sites, and an honest first-timer walkthrough: scuba diving in Andaman.
Makruzz Ferry Guide
Booking, timings, fares, classes and whether it beats Nautika: the Makruzz ferry guide.
Where to Eat in the Andamans
The restaurants we actually ate at in Port Blair, Havelock and Neil: the best restaurants in Andaman.
Hotels on Neil Island
Beachfront, budget and 5-star, honestly compared with rough rates, where to stay on Neil.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need in Andaman?
Six to seven days is the honest minimum to see Port Blair, Havelock and Neil without rushing. Five days works if you are efficient. Under four days you will spend most of the trip travelling.
Which month is best to visit Andaman?
February and March offer the calmest seas and best diving visibility. The wider November to April window is all good. Avoid mid-May to September, when the monsoon brings rough seas and frequent ferry cancellations.
Is Andaman open for tourists now?
Yes, the Andaman group is fully open and Indians need no permit. The Nicobar Islands, however, remain restricted and closed to tourists. Ignore any package claiming to include Nicobar.
Is Andaman better than Bali?
For Indian travellers on value and ease, yes: no international flight, no visa, rupee pricing, and world-class diving. Bali wins on nightlife, dining and infrastructure. It depends on whether you want a quiet reef holiday or a lively international trip.
Do Indians need a permit for Andaman?
No. Indian citizens need only a valid government photo ID. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit, now issued on arrival at Port Blair and valid for 30 days.
What is the cheapest month to visit Andaman?
April and the monsoon-fringe weeks (early October, early May) have the lowest fares, but you trade weather and ferry reliability. For the best price-to-weather balance, aim for late November or early February.
How do you get around between the islands?
Inter-island ferries. Private catamarans (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) are comfortable and bookable online; government ferries are cheaper but slower and counter-booked. Always keep a buffer day for weather cancellations.
How do I reach Andaman from mainland India?
Fly to Port Blair (IXZ) from Chennai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai or Hyderabad: Chennai and Kolkata are about 2 hours. The alternative is a 3–4 day government passenger ship from Chennai, Kolkata or Visakhapatnam, basic and counter-booked.
How much does an Andaman trip cost per person?
Excluding mainland flights: roughly ₹18,000–28,000 for a backpacker week, ₹35,000–60,000 mid-range, and ₹1 lakh+ for luxury. Diving, private ferries and peak-season stays are the big variables.
Is Andaman good for a honeymoon?
Yes, quietly romantic rather than glitzy. Base on Havelock near Radhanagar, add a sunset walk and an intro dive together, and it costs far less than an overseas beach honeymoon.
Which is better, Port Blair or Havelock?
They do different jobs. Port Blair is the airport, the Cellular Jail and logistics; Havelock is the beaches and diving. Spend the minimum in Port Blair and the bulk of the trip on Havelock and Neil.
Is scuba diving in Andaman safe for beginners?
Yes. A Discover Scuba dive needs no certification or swimming ability: an instructor holds you throughout at a one-to-one ratio at reputable centres. Choose a certified PADI/SSI operator, not the cheapest beach deal.
What is Andaman famous for?
Scuba diving and snorkelling on healthy coral reefs, Radhanagar Beach on Havelock, the Cellular Jail in Port Blair, the sea walk, and quiet white-sand islands like Neil.
Can you visit the Nicobar Islands?
No. The Nicobar group is a protected tribal and strategic zone, closed to tourists, even most Indian citizens cannot go. All tourism happens in the Andaman group.
What should I know about the Jarawa reserve?
The Baratang road crosses the Jarawa tribal reserve. Photographing, filming, feeding or interacting with the Jarawa is a legal offence. Travel in the regulated convoy with windows and cameras down.
Do ferries really get cancelled?
Yes, in rough weather: mostly during the monsoon but occasionally in season too. Book direct, arrive early, and never plan a same-day ferry-then-flight connection out of Port Blair.
Is there nightlife in Andaman?
Very little, and that is the point. Most islands are quiet by 9pm; evenings are about sunsets, seafood dinners and dark skies. For nightlife, this is the wrong destination.
Are the Andamans expensive compared to Goa?
Somewhat: supplies ship in, ferries add cost, and peak-season stays run higher. But there is no visa or forex, and the diving and beaches are a clear step up from the mainland.
When do things book out?
December to January and long weekends. In those windows, book flights and inter-island ferries 2–4 weeks ahead and stays as early as you can, on-island availability is genuinely thin.
Sources & references
- 1Andaman & Nicobar TourismAndaman & Nicobar Tourism · tourism.andamannicobar.gov.in
- 2Port Blair entry requirementsAndamanTourism.org · andamantourism.org
- 3Rules for foreign touristsA&N Police · police.andaman.gov.in
- 4Andaman itineraryGo2Andaman · go2andaman.com
Facts cross-checked against Andaman & Nicobar Tourism, AndamanTourism.org: entry requirements, A&N Police: foreign tourist rules and Go2Andaman, plus our own trip.
Carousel photographs: Vyacheslav Argenberg (CC BY 4.0); Jomesh (CC BY 3.0); Vardhan Patankar (CC BY-SA 4.0); Harvinder Chandigarh (CC BY-SA 4.0); Vinayaraj (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons.
On this page
Paul
Founder · Offbeat Peak
The moment the trip clicked for us was not on Radhanagar. It was the morning ferry to Neil: flying fish skipping off the bow, Havelock shrinking behind, and nowhere we had to be until sunset. The Andamans are not a checklist. They are permission to slow down.