Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep): Our First-Hand Guide to Beaches, Ferries, Stays and Things To Do
- India
- Andaman
- Havelock Island
If you only have time for one island in the Andamans, make it Havelock.
90 min
Ferry from Port Blair
Radhanagar · Kalapathar · Elephant Beach · the dive capital
25 km / 1–1.5 hr
Households
~20 total
Ideal stay
1 – 2 nights
In shortThe one island to pick in the Andamans: beaches, ferries, stays and things to do on Havelock (Swaraj Dweep).
Barefoot AndamanGo2AndamanRavenous LegsWikipediaWe have done the full circuit (Port Blair, Neil and Havelock) and Havelock (officially renamed Swaraj Dweep in 2018, though almost everyone still says Havelock) is the one we keep going back to in our heads: the beach that keeps getting called Asia’s best, the clearest water we snorkelled all trip, and just enough cafes and scuba shacks to fill days without ever feeling like a resort strip.
Havelock sits in Ritchie’s Archipelago, east of Port Blair in the Bay of Bengal, roughly 50 km out. Worth clearing up early: the Nicobar group further south is restricted and not open to tourists: Havelock is firmly in the open, tourist-friendly Andaman group.
The island is small, you can cross most of it on a scooter in under half an hour, and life clusters around the jetty at Govind Nagar and the road running south-west to Radhanagar. The vibe is barefoot and unhurried: fishing boats, dive flags, fairy-lit cafes, and long empty sand between the busy bits. Honest heads-up: power cuts happen, ATMs run dry, and mobile data is patchy. Carry cash and download offline maps first.
| Best time | October to May (peak Dec–Jan); avoid the June–September monsoon for ferries |
| How to reach | Fast ferry from Port Blair (Makruzz / Nautika / Green Ocean, ~90 min); no airport, no bridge |
| Ideal for | Beach lovers, honeymooners, scuba divers, snorkellers, slow travellers |
| Famous for | Radhanagar Beach, Kalapathar sunrise, Elephant Beach snorkelling, scuba diving |
| Timings / entry | Beaches free; Radhanagar gates roughly 5am–6pm; boat charges at Elephant Beach |
| Time needed | 3–4 days ideal; a week if you are diving |
01 · Where is Havelock and what is the vibe?
There is no airport and no bridge: the only way in is a ferry from Port Blair, which is the single logistics thing that trips people up. Private catamarans (Makruzz ~₹800–1,800 by class, Nautika and Green Ocean ~₹1,200–3,400) take about 90 minutes from Haddo Jetty; the government ferry (~₹400–600) is cheaper, slower and leaves from Phoenix Bay. Book a few days ahead in season, arrive 45–60 minutes early, and carry a printed ticket plus physical photo ID: phone copies are often refused. During the monsoon, rough seas cancel ferries with little notice, so never plan a same-day flight connection after a crossing.
Radhanagar Beach (No. 7): the one
The beach that gets called Asia’s best, and for once the hype holds: a long curve of soft white sand, shallow turquoise water, a wall of forest behind. Come by 4.30pm, walk to the quieter far end, and stay for a world-class sunset. Lifeguards whistle you back when the current picks up: take it seriously, the drop-off is deeper than it looks. Free entry, gates roughly dawn to 6pm, no night access.
Kalapathar Beach: the sunrise counterpart
On the east coast, named for its black rocks, Kalapathar is narrower, backed by a photogenic tree-lined road, and much quieter early: exactly when to go. Not as swim-friendly (rockier, shallower), but for a peaceful start with barely anyone around, it is our pick.
Elephant Beach: snorkelling and water sports
Not reachable by road: take the 20-minute speedboat (~₹1,000 round trip) or the 2.5 km jungle trek (muddy after rain, hard going in humidity). The reward is the island’s best shallow-water snorkelling: live coral and reef fish right off the sand. Water sports are sold in packages; agree the rate before you board. Go early, bring water, and never stand on the coral.
Vijaynagar & Govind Nagar: the everyday beaches
Vijaynagar (No. 5) is the long, calm, shallow stretch where the dive resorts sit: good for a slow morning coffee and shore dives, silty at low tide. Govind Nagar (No. 3), by the jetty and market, is a walk-to-dinner beach rather than a destination.
Does Havelock glow at night?
Best time in one line: October to May. December–January is gorgeous but busiest; October–November and February–March are our favourite months: warm, clear, thinner crowds, best diving visibility. April–May is hot but fine and cheaper. June–September is the honest skip-it season.
Sometimes, and it is magic when it does
Bioluminescent plankton can make the water glow blue when disturbed, usually seen on night kayaking trips through the mangroves. It depends on moon phase and season: treat it as a lucky bonus, not a sure thing, and book a new-moon week if you can.
Getting in
Ferry only: plan it first
Every operator, class and timing is broken down in our Makruzz ferry guide. Rule of thumb: private catamaran for reliability, government ferry for budget, and always a buffer before flights.
Getting around
Rent the scooter
₹400–600 a day plus deposit turns the whole island into an easy beach-hopping loop. Autos exist but waiting between beaches quietly eats the day.
Getting on
Pair it with Neil
Most travellers add 1–2 nights on quieter Neil (45–60 min ferry). Where to sleep there is compared in our Neil Island hotels guide.
Ferries at a glance
| Operator | From | Time | Rough fare (₹) |
| Makruzz | Haddo Jetty | ~90 min | 800–1,800 by class |
| Nautika | Haddo Jetty | ~90 min | 1,200–3,400 |
| Green Ocean | Haddo Jetty | ~2 hrs | 1,000–2,000 |
| Government ferry | Phoenix Bay | 2–2.5 hrs | 400–600 |
Scuba diving
Havelock is the diving capital of India: warm water, calm shallow reefs, centres used to first-timers. A Discover Scuba intro runs ₹3,500–5,000; a PADI Open Water course ₹22,000–28,000 over 3–4 days. Book direct with an established centre: full prices, sites and safety notes in our scuba diving in Andaman guide.
Snorkelling & sea walk
Snorkelling is best off Elephant Beach and nearby reefs: cheap gear, no experience needed. The sea walk (weighted helmet on the seabed, ~₹3,500–4,500) lets non-swimmers stand among the fish.
Fishing, boats & jet skis
Game fishing, glass-bottom boats and jet skis round out the menu, mostly sold at the jetty and Elephant Beach.
Kayaking & bioluminescence
Night kayaking through the mangroves is the sleeper hit, on dark nights the water glows as your paddle stirs it. Book around the new moon for the best odds.
Doing nothing, expertly
Honestly the island’s core skill: a book at Vijaynagar, a long lunch, a second coffee, sunset at No. 7. Do not over-schedule it.
Where to stay: the three zones
Near the jetty and market (No. 3): most convenient, walkable food. Vijaynagar / No. 5: beachy, most dive resorts and mid-range stays. Towards Radhanagar (No. 7): quieter and more luxurious. True hostels are rare, Classic Hostel is about the only proper one, so most budget travellers use family-run guesthouses, often better value and warmer anyway. Book ahead in peak season and book direct.
Where to eat
The food scene punches above the island’s size: Anju Coco for reliable everything, Something Different for beachside pizza and Thai, Full Moon Cafe for slow breakfasts, Fat Martin for cheap dosas, and The Swimming Elephant at Barefoot for the treat dinner. Kitchens close early (9.30–10pm) and menus shrink when the ferry has not delivered: eat before it gets late. Full list in our where to eat in the Andamans guide.
| Property / type | Area | Rough ₹/night | Best for |
| Taj Exotica | Radhanagar side | 30,000+ | Honeymoon splurge |
| Barefoot at Havelock | No. 7 | 15,000–25,000 | Nature, divers, couples |
| SeaShell / Silver Sand | Vijaynagar | 8,000–15,000 | Comfortable beach base |
| Symphony Palms / Coral Reef | No. 3–5 | 4,000–8,000 | Families, first-timers |
| Guesthouses & homestays | Near market | 1,000–3,000 | Backpackers, value |
| Classic Hostel | Near jetty | 600–1,200 (dorm) | Solo travellers |
How many days do you need?
Different jobs entirely
Cash first, cards maybe
Respect the currents
June–September, eyes open
Three full days: one for Radhanagar and Kalapathar, one for Elephant Beach or a scuba intro, one spare for a proper dive or doing nothing. Two days works but feels rushed once ferries eat their share. Getting certified? Plan four to five days here alone. The classic Andaman week pairs Havelock with Neil and a Port Blair day: mapped in our 5-day itinerary.
Port Blair is the entry point and history stop; a working town, not a beach holiday. Havelock is where you actually holiday. Pass through Port Blair by necessity, give it the day its sights deserve, and spend the rest here.
Know Before You Go: Havelock Essentials
- Ferry only: book Makruzz/Nautika ahead and arrive 45–60 min early with a printed ticket
- Carry cash from Port Blair; island ATMs run dry
- Swim between the flags at Radhanagar: the currents are real
- No flying for 18–24 hours after a dive
Get here smoothly
The ferry is the only door to Havelock. Fares, classes, timings and the booking flow are all in the Makruzz guide.
Power, network and the practical stuff
ATMs are few and frequently empty; cards and UPI work in town but are patchy at shacks and dive shops. Bring what you need from Port Blair.
Swaraj Dweep: the name question
Beat the 10am heat
Great with kids 8+
Peak fills fast
Seas decide the day
Radhanagar’s currents are real: swim between the flags and heed the lifeguards. On reefs: no touching, no standing, and pick operators who brief you on reef care.
Green and cheap, but rough seas cancel ferries with little notice and can strand you a day. Fine for flexible travellers; risky with fixed dates.
What actually fills three perfect days
It is not cheap-beach Asia: ferries, limited competition and shipped-in supplies push prices up. But it is gentler on the wallet than the Maldives for comparable water, with Indian food, no visa and no forex.
02 · Things to do in Havelock
Power cuts are routine, mobile data patchy, and wifi a suggestion. Download maps, tickets and entertainment offline before the ferry, then enjoy being unreachable.
Beyond lying on world-class sand
Officially renamed Swaraj Dweep in 2018. Signboards mix both names; ferries, locals and every cafe still say Havelock. Use either: everyone understands both.
Radhanagar sunset
Asia’s best beach earning the title at golden hour. Far end, 4.30pm, stay till the sky goes orange.
Free · daily
Kalapathar sunrise
Black rocks, turquoise water, tree-lined road, nobody around. The best start to any island day.
Free · go before 7am
Discover Scuba dive
No certification, an instructor holding you, and the reefs that make Havelock India’s dive capital: details in the scuba guide.
₹3,500–5,000 intro
Elephant Beach snorkel
Speedboat out, live coral in chest-deep water, reef fish everywhere. The best non-diver reef time on the island.
~₹1,000 boat + gear
Sea walk
A weighted helmet, air pumped in, and you walking the seabed: non-swimmers welcome.
₹3,500–4,500
Night kayak the mangroves
Glowing water on dark nights as bioluminescent plankton fires around your paddle. Moon-phase dependent, magic when it lands.
~₹2,500–3,500
Scooter loop the island
Jetty to Radhanagar to Kalapathar in one unhurried arc: the ₹500 that unlocks the whole island.
₹400–600/day
PADI Open Water course
Three to four days to a certification you can use anywhere in the world, at some of India’s calmest training reefs.
₹22,000–28,000
Cafe-hop Govind Nagar
Fairy lights, fresh juice, grilled catch and proper coffee: the restaurant guide names our regulars.
₹400–1,800 for two
Day-trip to Neil
45–60 minutes by ferry for the Natural Bridge and Bharatpur’s shallows, though an overnight is better; see the Neil hotels guide.
Ferry ₹560–1,500
If you only do two things
One morning underwater, dive or snorkel, and one Radhanagar sunset. Everything else on Havelock is garnish.
Read the honest scuba guide first
Real prices, the sites worth requesting, and how to pick a safe centre: all in scuba diving in Andaman.
Sunrise to fairy lights
Kalapathar at dawn, breakfast at Govind Nagar, reef or dive by mid-morning, shade at noon, Radhanagar from 4.30pm. That is the perfect Havelock day, twice over.
Five beaches, five jobs
5.45am Kalapathar sunrise → 8am breakfast at Govind Nagar → 10am dive boat or Elephant Beach speedboat → 1pm long lunch in the shade → 4.30pm Radhanagar, far end → 6.15pm sunset → 8pm grilled catch under fairy lights. Repeat with a clear conscience.
Boarding closes 30 minutes before sailing and the boats do not wait. Ferry days are not beach-morning days.
Book the dive, then the room
Dive-centre slots per day are genuinely limited in season. Lock the dive first and fit the stay around it, not the reverse.
Which sand for which mood
Calm shallow entries at Vijaynagar, glass-bottom boats for non-swimmers, short distances everywhere. Watch the Radhanagar flags with younger swimmers.
The showpiece
Asia-best sand and sunsets; real currents. Swim between the flags.
The sunrise
Photogenic, rocky, blissfully quiet before 8am.
The reef
Boat-in snorkelling hub: live coral, water sports, go early.
The slow morning
Calm, shallow, dive resorts and long walks; silty at low tide.
The convenient
By the jetty and market: a walk-to-dinner beach, not a destination.
The encore
Bharatpur, Laxmanpur and the Natural Bridge, one short ferry away.
| Beach | Best hour | Swimming | Getting there |
| Radhanagar | 4.30pm–sunset | Yes, flagged area | 12 km, scooter |
| Kalapathar | Dawn | Wading only | 8 km, scooter |
| Elephant | Morning | Snorkel-first | Speedboat or trek |
| Vijaynagar | All day | Calm, shallow | Central |
| Govind Nagar | Evening stroll | OK | At the jetty |
The three-day shape
Day 1: arrive, Vijaynagar, Radhanagar sunset. Day 2: Kalapathar dawn, dive or Elephant Beach. Day 3: spare: second dive, scooter loop, or gloriously nothing.
Season planner
The sea decides everything here: ferries, visibility, even the food supply. The honest month-by-month call:
| Window | Sea & ferries | Crowds | Call |
| Dec–Jan | Calm | Peak, book early | Gorgeous, busiest |
| Oct–Nov & Feb–Mar | Calmest, clearest | Moderate | Our favourite months |
| Apr–May | Fine, warming | Thin | Hot but cheap |
| Jun–Sep | Rough, cancellations | Minimal | Skip unless flexible |
Late February: sunrise beaches to yourself, 25-metre visibility on the reef, and ferries that actually run on time.
Know before you go
Know before you go
Printed ferry tickets and physical ID, cash from Port Blair, offline maps, reef-safe sunscreen, and no flying for 18–24 hours after your last dive.
Carry cash
ATMs are few and frequently empty; the good small kitchens and dive shacks are cash-first.
Book ahead in peak
Ferries and the good-value stays sell out first, December through January especially.
Respect the sea
Flags at Radhanagar, briefings on the reef, no standing on coral. The lifeguards whistle for a reason.
Never same-day fly
A cancelled crossing plus a missed flight is the classic Havelock mistake. Sleep in Port Blair before you fly.
Keep planning the trip
The rest of the Andaman library: first-hand, commission-free.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Havelock Island famous for?
Radhanagar Beach, repeatedly rated among Asia’s best, plus Kalapathar’s sunrise, Elephant Beach snorkelling, and being India’s top scuba-diving base. It is the flagship beach island of the Andamans.
Which is better, Port Blair or Havelock?
Havelock for beaches, diving and relaxing; Port Blair for history (the Cellular Jail) and as the transport hub. Most travellers do a day or two in Port Blair and spend the bulk of the trip on Havelock.
How do I get to Havelock Island?
By ferry only, from Port Blair. Private fast catamarans (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean) take about 90 minutes for roughly ₹800–3,400 depending on class; slower government ferries cost less. There is no airport or bridge.
Does Havelock Island glow at night?
Sometimes, yes. Bioluminescent plankton can make the water glow blue when disturbed, usually seen on night kayaking trips through the mangroves. It depends on moon phase and season: a lucky bonus, not a sure thing.
How many days should I spend in Havelock?
Three full days is ideal for the main beaches, snorkelling and a scuba intro. Two is the rushed minimum; four to five if you are doing a diving course.
What is the best time to visit Havelock?
October to May, with December–January the clearest but busiest. Avoid the June–September monsoon, when ferries are frequently cancelled.
Is Havelock good for non-swimmers?
Yes. Sea walking and Discover Scuba dives let non-swimmers experience the reef safely with instructors, and there are calm, shallow beaches for wading.
Is Radhanagar Beach really worth it?
Yes, the one beach where the hype holds. Soft white sand, turquoise shallows and a world-class sunset. Go after 4.30pm, walk to the far end, and respect the current flags.
How do I reach Elephant Beach?
A 20-minute speedboat from the jetty (~₹1,000 round trip) or a 2.5 km jungle trek off the Radhanagar road. The boat is far easier; the trek gets muddy and hard-going after rain.
What does scuba diving cost in Havelock?
A Discover Scuba intro runs ₹3,500–5,000 (shore) to ₹7,500 (boat), a fun dive ₹3,500–4,500, and a PADI Open Water course ₹22,000–28,000. Most reputable centres add 18% GST.
Where should I stay on Havelock?
Near the jetty (No. 3) for convenience and food, Vijaynagar (No. 5) for dive resorts and mid-range comfort, or towards Radhanagar (No. 7) for quiet luxury like Barefoot and the Taj.
Are there ATMs and card payments?
Barely. ATMs are few and often empty, and many cafes, guesthouses and dive shacks are cash-first. Withdraw in Port Blair before the ferry.
Is Havelock the same as Swaraj Dweep?
Yes, officially renamed Swaraj Dweep in 2018. Ferries, locals and signs use both names interchangeably.
Can I do Havelock as a day trip from Port Blair?
Technically, but you would spend 3–4 hours on ferries for a couple of beach hours. Stay at least one night; two or three is when the island makes sense.
What should I not miss on Havelock?
A Radhanagar sunset, Kalapathar at dawn, and one session underwater: dive or snorkel. Those three are the island distilled.
Is the food good for vegetarians?
Fine, not spectacular: every cafe keeps paneer, dosas, pasta and thalis, but menus are seafood-led and veg stock thins late in the day. Order early.
How early should I reach the jetty for the ferry?
45–60 minutes before departure. Boarding closes 30 minutes before sailing, security is slow, and printed tickets plus physical photo ID are expected.
Does Havelock have nightlife?
No, and that is the charm. Kitchens close by 10pm; evenings are sunsets, seafood, candlelight during power cuts, and very dark, starry skies.
Havelock or Neil, which should I choose?
Havelock for beaches, diving and food variety; Neil for silence and slow days. With 4+ days, do both: they are 45–60 minutes apart by ferry.
Sources & references
- 1Swaraj Dweep: an exploration guideBarefoot Andaman · barefoot-andaman.com
- 2Elephant Beach, HavelockGo2Andaman · go2andaman.com
- 3Havelock Island: what makes it specialRavenous Legs · ravenouslegs.com
- 4Havelock IslandWikipedia · en.wikipedia.org
Cross-checked against Barefoot Andaman, Go2Andaman: Elephant Beach, Ravenous Legs and Wikipedia: Havelock Island, plus our own stays.
Carousel photographs: Vyacheslav Argenberg (CC BY 4.0); Harvinder Chandigarh (CC BY-SA 4.0); Vinayaraj (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons.
On this page
Paul
Founder · Offbeat Peak
Our second evening, a power cut killed every light on Beach No. 3, and nobody minded. The cafes lit candles, the stars came out over the jetty, and the sea kept doing its thing. That is Havelock: the infrastructure shrugs, and the island more than covers for it.